Tish Weinstock
The mood was sombre at Balenciaga, as Demna ushered in a return to craft. The hair was suitably understated: eschewing height or volume, it was either slicked back or lacquered and sleek. Elsewhere, at Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton harked back to the ’90s with anatomical precision and a dark elegance. To complement this, hair was either slicked into intricate waves at the front or tied back and glossy.
Goth girls
Goth girls do it better. At least that was the story at Givenchy, where eyes were rimmed with soft kohl. At Dior, too, creative and image director for make-up Peter Philips offered up his twist on a smoky eye, with his iteration being much more deconstructed. “It’s a strong look,” says Philips. “Up close it looks beautiful, but it is also visible from far away, which was essential because the catwalk is huge.” Elsewhere, Rick Owens kept things spooky with elliptical black shapes around the eyes and some monstrous black contact lenses.