Dhara Vora Sabhnani
Doing a full face of makeup with foundation, concealer, contour and blush in the AM can be a real process, considering the amount of time, effort and patience it takes. Plus, if your base starts slipping, melting, and creasing by noon, it can be really frustrating. While this is true for all skin types, those with oily skin have it even harder as makeup emulsifies with natural oils more quickly, resulting in a messy look. To address this, we consulted celebrity makeup artists Daniel Bauer and Gianluca Casu for their tips on the best makeup steps for oily skin to ensure smooth application and long-lasting results.
Update your skincare routine
The path to even makeup begins well before you apply your foundation and the right skin preparation lays the groundwork for smoother makeup application. Start by cleansing and exfoliating to manage excess sebum and reduce pore visibility. “Even if you have oily skin, skipping moisturisation is a mistake,” notes Bauer. Oily skin still needs hydration to prevent overactive sebum production. Opt for a gel-based lotion or moisturiser that hydrates without leaving a greasy residue. To streamline your routine, focus on essential makeup steps for oily skin, such as using multi-tasking skincare products like a priming moisturiser with SPF. This approach can help avoid the pilling that results from layering too many products
Try a primer
Makeup artists are usually divided over the need for primer. “Using a primer will definitely help if you have large pores to fill, but it can sometimes be a little bit too much makeup to be putting on. A primer is 95 per cent just a moisturiser,” says Bauer. Casu isn’t the biggest fan either, but he keeps a primer on hand to mattify extremely oily patches and make the base makeup stick. “I apply it with a foundation brush, blending it from the centre of the face to the sides,” he says. Want to use primer but don’t want to slather it everywhere? You can spot prime areas that need it most—zits, the T-zone and parts of the face you’re more likely to touch often.
Create an even base
You must pick the right foundation for your skin type. “For oily skin, you can pick between a powder (which should be applied with a damp sponge) and a mattifying liquid foundation,” says Casu. Even tinted moisturisers with a more gel-like consistency work—they won’t slip off and leave streaks on your face. If you only need to cover up a certain area (like pimples or dark circles), use a creamy, thick concealer with a tacky consistency to spot conceal wherever you need to. Makeup artists also suggest applying foundation with a stippling brush, in quick motions that don’t drag the product around. Sheer coverage can prevent your makeup from looking thick and too layered on.
Know what you’re using
You need to keep your skin type in mind when picking the rest of your makeup products too. Love the dewy skin trend? Both makeup artists warn that it might start to look greasy after an hour or two of wear. Casu suggests steering clear of the wet look and extremely shiny highlighters, choosing matte colours to define the face instead. Cream and liquid consistencies work better on an oilier face, as the powder can emulsify with the natural oil, leaving your face looking messy and streaky. Jelly or lightweight balms, especially for blush and contour products, can sink into the skin more easily than their powdery counterparts.
For the eyes, primer is non-negotiable. It can prevent the slip-slide of concealer, mascara and eyeshadow in the area. You can also try the sandbagging technique to sop up the grease—use a sponge to cake on loose powder over makeup (you’ll need more than you think), focusing on the areas underneath the eyes and around the lips. Let the powder set, absorbing oils from the skin in the process, and then brush the excess off with a fluffy brush.
Set your makeup
Most people use a setting spray after makeup, but Bauer has a pro tip up his sleeve to make the base foundation last longer. “I find that for oilier skin, applying a setting spray before the base helps the foundation sit in place much longer. This also hydrates your face and removes any excess oils,” he reveals. On the other hand, Casu prefers to use powder to set base makeup. “Choose a soft and transparent powder (Chanel or Makeup Forever HD powder are good options), and use a small brush to touch up your nose, forehead and the centre parts of your cheeks,” he explains.
Also read:
The secrets to long-lasting makeup for party season
10 jelly makeup products that you’re going to love using
9 makeup setting products that actually have great skincare benefits
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