As Prada continues to face criticism over its Kolhapuri chappal-inspired sandals, the broader fashion world is grappling with how to engage with Indian aesthetics without falling into appropriation. The Italian label was called out on social media and by industry insiders for using a design closely resembling India’s traditional Kolhapuri footwear, without crediting the original artisans or cultural roots. The backlash has reignited long-standing concerns over luxury brands profiting from Indian heritage while erasing its origin stories.

In sharp contrast, Louis Vuitton’s recent Spring/Summer 2026 men’s show in Paris is being hailed as a masterclass in how to collaborate with, rather than co-opt, Indian culture. As reported by The Economic Times, Pharrell Williams, LV’s Men’s Creative Director, drew deeply from his week, long trip to India in March, which took him to New Delhi, Mumbai and Jaipur. The result was an immersive runway experience at the Centre Pompidou on June 24, titled Paris to India.The show’s references were deliberate and credited. The Snakes & Ladders-themed runway was conceptualised by Indian architect Bijoy Jain. The music was scored by Oscar-winning composer AR Rahman. The collection incorporated Indian textiles and traditional silhouettes, presented with transparency about their sources.

The timing is not coincidental. India’s luxury market is rapidly expanding, it’s valued at $17 billion and projected to hit $85 billion by 2030. Luxury houses including Dior, Gucci, and Valentino have already started designing India, specific collections or staging shows in the country. Dior’s 2023 pre-fall show in Mumbai, in partnership with the Chanakya School of Craft, was another notable example of this shift.Pharrell closed the show in a simple gesture that resonated with many. He walked the runway in track shorts, folded his hands in a namaste, and bowed. The collection itself reflected India’s diverse palette, with colours named turmeric, cinnamon, and ‘coffee indigo’. As Pharrell said backstage to fashion journal WWD, the collection was inspired by “the multifaceted sensibilities of present-day Indian sartorialism.”